Jhelum

Jhelum District (Urdu: ضلع جہلم‎) is in the Punjab province of Pakistan. Jhelum is one of the oldest districts of Punjab. It was established on 23 March 1849.[1] According to the 1998 census, the district had a population of 936,957, of which 31.48% were urban.[2] Jhelum District has a diverse population of 1,103,000 (2006)[3] which mainly consists of Punjabis. Jhelum is known for providing a large number of soldiers to the British and later to the Pakistan armed forces due to which it is also known as city of soldiers or land of martyrs and warriors.[4] The district of Jhelum stretches from the river Jhelum almost to the Indus. Salt is quarried at the Mayo mine in the Salt Range. There are two coal-mines in the district from which the North-Western railway obtains parts of its supply. These are the only coal-mines in Punjab province which are in working condition. The chief centre of the salt trade is Pind Dadan Khan. The district is crossed by the main line of the North-Western railway, and also traversed along the south by a branch line. It is located in the north of the Punjab province, Jhelum district is bordered by Sargodha and Mandi Bahauddin to its south, Khushab to its south west, Jhelum River to its south and east, Gujrat to its east, Chakwal to its west, Mirpur to its north east, and Rawalpindi to its north.

Demographics

The population of Jhelum District according to the 1998 census of Pakistan was 936,957 with a population density of 261 people per square kilometer.[8] Jhelum District has a diverse population of 1,103,000 (2006)[3] which mainly consists of Punjabis. According to Punjab Education Department's annual literacy statistics for 2006, Jhelum had a literacy rate of 79% which is among the highest in Pakistan.[9][10][11] Human Development Index of Jhelum is 0.770, which is highest in Pakistan after Karachi. Based on the surveys of 2004-2005, Jhelum district is considered fourth richest district of Pakistan with about 12.32% of its population living under the poverty line. The top three in the list are Karachi, Lahore and Rawalpindi.[12] According to the Gazetteer of the Jhelum District of 1904, 88.7% of the population were Muslim[13]

History

The history of the district dates back to the Hindu mythological period of the Mahabharata. The epic represents the Salt Range as the refuge of the five Pandava brethren during the period of their exile, and every salient point in its scenery is connected with some legend of the national heroes. Modern research has fixed the site of the conflict between Alexander and Raja Porus as within Jhelum district, though the exact spot at which the Macedonian king effected the passage of the Jhelum (or Hydaspes) has been hotly disputed. After this event, we have little information with regard to the condition of the district until the Muslim conquest brought back literature and history to Upper India. The Panhwars, Janjuas and Jats, who now hold the Salt Range and its northern plateau respectively, appear to have been the earliest inhabitants

The Gakhars, who appear to represent an early wave of conquest from the west, and who still inhabit a large tract in the east of the District; while the Awans, who now cluster in the western plain, are apparently later invaders, the Gakhars were the dominant race during the early Muslim era and they long continued to retain their independence, both in Jhelum itself and in the neighbouring District of Rawalpindi.[14]

Sultanate era

In 997 CE, Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi, took over the Ghaznavid dynasty empire established by his father, Sultan Sebuktegin, he conquered the Shahis in Kabul in 1005, and followed it by the conquests of northern Punjab region. The Delhi Sultanate and later Mughal Empire ruled the region. The Punjab region became predominantly Muslim due to missionary Sufi saints whose dargahs dot the landscape of Punjab region, which is also reflected in Jhelum. The Jhelum region has also a good number of Arain population. The Arain, descendants of Arabs who entered in Indian Sub continent with Muhammad Bin Qasim spread here in the reign of Mahmud Ghaznavi due to being in his chivalry.

Mughal era

During the flourishing period of the Mughal dynasty, the Gakhar chieftains were among the most prosperous and loyal vassals of the house of Babar.

Sikh era

After the decline of the Mughal Empire, the Sikh invaded and occupied Jhelum District. In 1765 Gujar Singh defeated the last independent Gakhars Chief, Muqarrrab Khan, and then ruled over the mountains of the Salt Range and the Murree Hills.

British era

In 1849, Jhelum, with the other Sikh territories, came under British rule.

During British rule Jhelum was a district of Rawalpindi Division, and was larger than the current district of Jhelum. On April 1, 1904, the tehsil of Talagang was detached from the District and incorporated with the new District of Attock.

The old Jhelum district (minus Talagang) covered an area of 2,813 square miles (7285 km2) and included Chakwal Tehsil – it was bordered by Shahpur and Attock to the west, and by Rawalpindi to the north – the Jhelum River separated it from Kashmir to the north-east and from Gujrat and Shahpur to the south-east and south.[14]

Independence

The predominantly Muslim population supported Muslim League and Pakistan Movement. After the independence of Pakistan in 1947, the minority Hindus and Sikhs migrated to India while the Muslim refugees from India settled in the Jhelum District.

Since independence the agriculture and industry of Jhelum developed and forms part of the economy of Pakistan.[citation needed]

Topography

The district capital, Jhelum City, is situated on the right and left bank of the Jhelum River,the left side of Jhelum is known as Sarai Alamgir and it also contain the Military College Jhelum (MCJ). The 16th-century Grand Trunk Road passes through the city. Jhelum city is near the site of the famous Battle of the Hydaspes between the armies of Alexander and Raja Porus This battle took place a few miles downstream from the city center, along the river banks. Population of the Jhelum city (proper) is about 172,073[15] (2009) and it is the 35th largest city of Pakistan by population. A cantonment was built during the British rule, which has grown up into a strong Garrison, with an Infantry Division commanded by a Major General.

River Jhelum

The River Jhelum below the bridge beside Jhelum City

The river Jhelum is navigable throughout the district, which forms the south-eastern portion of a rugged Himalayan spur, extending between the Indus and Jhelum to the borders of the Sind Sagar Doab. Its scenery is very picturesque, although not of so wild a character as the mountain region of Rawalpindi to the north, and is lighted up in places by smiling patches of cultivated valley. The backbone of the district is formed by the Salt Range, a treble line of parallel hills running in three long forks from east to west throughout its whole breadth.

The range rises in bold precipices, broken by gorges, clothed with brushwood and traversed by streams which are at first pure, but soon become impregnated with the saline matter over which they pass. Between the line of hills lies a picturesque table-land, in which the beautiful little lake of Kallar Kahar nestles amongst the minor ridges. North of the Salt Range, the country extends upwards in an elevated plateau, diversified by countless ravines and fissures, until it loses itself in tangled masses of Rawalpindi mountains. In this rugged tract cultivation is rare and difficult, the soil being choked with saline matter. At the foot of the Salt Range, however, a small strip of level soil lies along the banks of the Jhelum, and is thickly dotted with prosperous villages.

The drainage of the district is determined by a low central watershed running north and south at right angles to the Salt Range. The waters of the western portion find their way into the Sohan, and finally into the Indus; those of the opposite slope collect themselves into small torrents, and empty themselves into the Jhelum River.

Khewra Salt Mine

A small masjid made of salt bricks inside the Khewra salt mine complex

The Khewra Salt Mine (or Mayo Salt Mine) is located in Khewra, north of Pind Dadan Khan,[16] an administrative subdivision of Jhelum District, which rises from the Indo-Gangetic Plain.[17] It is Pakistan's largest and oldest salt mine[18] and the world's second largest.[19][20] It is a major tourist attraction, drawing up to 250,000 visitors a year.[21] Its history dates back to its discovery by Alexander's troops in 320 BC, but it started trading in the Mughal era.[22] The main tunnel at ground level was developed by Dr. H. Warth, a mining engineer, in 1872 during British rule. After independence, the Pakistan Mineral Development Corporation took over the mine, which still remains the largest source of salt in the country, producing more than 350,000 tons per annum[23] of about 99% pure halite.

Estimates of the reserves of salt in the mine vary from 82 million tons to 600 million tons.

Tilla Jogian

Tilla Jogian is the highest peak in the Eastern Salt Range. At 975 meters (3200 ft) above sea level, it is about 25 km to the west of Jhelum City city and 10 km west of the model village of Khukha. The view from the top of Tilla is highly rewarding. Rohtas Fort is located to the east of Tilla Jogian at a distance of about 7 km from Dina, a rapidly expanding town on the Grand Trunk Road.

Rohtas Fort

Rohtas Fort (Qila Rohtas) is a historical garrison fort located near the city of Jhelum. It was built by Raja Todar Mal, under the orders of the Afghan king Sher Shah Suri, to subdue the rebellious tribes of the northern Punjab region, in the 16th century. This fort is about 4 km in circumference. The Rohtas fort was built to crush the local tribes of Potohar, who rebelled against the Sur dynasty after the Mughal emperor Humayun was ousted by the former.

It took eight years to built the fort, it was captured by Mughal emperor Humayun in 1555.[24] Nadir Shah, the Turkic ruler of Persia, Afghan ruler Ahmed Shah Abdali and the Maratha army also camped here during their respective campaigns in the Punjab region. Rohtas was also occasionally used for administrative purposes by the Sikh ruler Ranjit Singh after he captured it in 1825.[25][26]

Agriculture

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Jhelum District has a total area of 858,767 acres (3,475.31 km2), out of which 316,815 acres (1,282.10 km2) are cultivated. The area is located on the eastern part of Potohar upland along with River Jhelum.

Agriculture in the District Jhelum depends mainly on rainfall. The average rainfall of the area varies from 20 to 40 inches (1,000 mm). About three fourth of this precipitation is received in monsoon season and the remaining one fourth is received during the rest of the year. The irrigated area at present is limited but the emphasis on construction of small dams is gradually increasing. Wheat remains the main crop.

In Tehsil P.D. Khan, salt is the predominant feature which is spoiling the rich agricultural land day by day. There is a long strip of very rich and virgin soil along the river which could be made a paradise of citrus plantation by drip irrigation if the local people are motivated and the Government of Punjab expressed some interest in it.[citation needed]

Sports

The fine horse and riders of the Jhelum tract

The main sports of the area are centred on agricultural pursuits and excellence and include Bugdar (stone) lifting by young men. A localised version of Kabbadi, bull races centered on a Persian water wheel at the villages of Kantrili, Nathwala and Jada near the suburban town of Kala Gujran. These happen to be important and most popular with many thousands of people in attendance. Tent pegging using the local horses and riders. This indicates the region's prowess during war and battle and hence the city being attributed the name of land of martyrs and warriors. Jhelum has a cricket stadium at Suleiman Park which is named Zamir Jaffri Cricket Stadium after Zamir Jafri, a poet from Jhelum. Many of these rural sports retain the regions excellence in raising and retaining some of the finest young citizens of the country. Hockey is another sport which is very popular in Jhelum. Jhelum produced many famous players of hockey who served for different departments in the field of hockey. Currently, Cypruss Hockey Club is the most popular club in Punjab.

Flora and fauna

Vegetation of the forests of Jhelum Forest Division is dry, deciduous shrub type, phulai, kahu (wild olive) and sanatha are the main species. The stocking on the whole is poor and the forests are open. Vegetation is poor on sandstone and red marl. The southern slopes are often devoid of vegetation while north western slopes carry good forests. The forests of Jhelum Forests Division are burdened with right of grazing, browsing and firewood. Under settlement out of total area 93,566 acres (378.65 km2) only 5,468 acres (22.13 km2) about (45%) are right free. Remaining 55% are open to grazing.

The fauna of the District is mostly indigenous restricted, like the vegetation, but similarly varied and interesting. The rugged and rough terrain, low rainfall, the scantly cover of vegetation and the burning passions of the increasing number of hunters, all have their share in limiting the animal kingdom in the District. The river offers a better environment than elsewhere though the hills support a more interesting wildlife. Urial (an animal from deer family) and chinckara are spot aids while wild bores are found in the Salt Range. Wolves, foxes and wild cats are also found. Hare is fairly common. Chikor grey and black Partridge are also found in the parts of the district. Migratory ducks like Teal Pin tail and mallard and some geese visit during winter.

Development organizations

Rehmat Welfare Foundation Jhelum is a charity project working for poor and needy people of fifty-mile area including Jhelum which cannot afford the expenses of their daily life and very expensive general medical and kidney dialysis treatment.[28]

Civil Society Human and Institutional Development Program[29] (CHIP)is working in Sohawa Tehsil since 2004, with its field office in the area CHIP has successfully mobilized community people to get organize into Community Based Organizations, Community Citizen Boards and Women Organizations. Further, CHIP has duly built the capacity of these local entities to take new initiatives. These community level organizations, in collaborative partnerships with CHIP, are working on several development projects. The main focus of these projects is to eliminate illiteracy from villages of Sohawa especially those where government education structure does not exist, make clean drinking water available, provide technical support to the local farmers, raise skill development opportunities for women and sensitize communities to include women in decision making. The local community level organizations developed by CHIP are making successful efforts in implementing development projects by deriving funds from local government bodies.

CHIP has announced Sohawa as its main development area and the organization is assessing further development interventions in villages of Sohawa, presently the main focus of organization is to introduce an 'Inclusive Development Model' which suggest active involvement of people with disabilities in the development process.[citation needed]

Education Welfare Society (EWS), a registered NGO, founded in 1995 by Syed Waqar Azeem, a social personality awarded by FAKHR-E-JHELUM (Pride of Jhelum) in 1998 demonstrated role in educational development in the city and represented Jhelum on international level and its educational welfare and developments' needs on major platforms and devoted himself for the welfare of the masses.[citation needed]

Tameer-e-Millat Foundation (TMF), a registered not-for-profit organization, is a development foundation in the district. It is focused on the 100% literate P.D. Khan Initiative. TMF started its first school in 1987 in Khewra a town of P.D. Khan Tehsil. Now, TMF is running ten model schools, fifty community schools, two vocational centers, two computer training centers and an institute of Technology in P.D.Khan Tehsil. Around five thousand boys and girls are studying in TMFs educational network in P.D.Khan. TMF has its model or community school in every union council of P.D. Khan.[citation needed]

Universities, colleges and schools

Govt. College GT Road Jhelum

Punjab University Campus

Govt. Post Graduate College, Jhelum

Govt. College. G.T. Road, Jhelum

Govt. College for Women, Jhelum

Govt. College of Commerce, Bilal Town, Jhelum

Govt Girls College, Jalalpur Sharif

Govt College of Education, Jhelum

International Islamic University Islamabad Schools, Jhelum

Lyceumhouse School System Karimpur Road, Jhelum.

Air Foundation School System, Jhelum (Boys & Girls)

Air Foundation School System Junior Branch (Near Al-Bilal Hotel)

Army Public School and College, Jhelum Cantt.

FG Intermediate College Jhelum Cantt.

Fauji Foundation Model School & College, Jhelum Cantt.

Cantonment Board CMB Model, Jhelum

World Over School and College Academy, Jhelum[30]

Etekosoft Institute of Computer Sciences, Jhelum

Global College of English Language, Bilal Town Jhelum

Govt. Noor Mudrassa Tul Banat Girls School, established since 1944

Government Degree College, Jhelum

Fahad College

Govt. Degree College, Sohawa

Govt. Degree College, Dina

Govt Model High School, Bair Faqiran

Army Public School and College, Mangla Cantt

Research Girls College, Kala Gujran

Jinnah College of Commerce & Computer Science, Jhelum

Presentation Convent School, Jhelum

Jhelum Homeopathic Medical College, GT Road, Jada

Govt. College of Technology, Chak Daulat

Cambridge College, 10-A Civil Lines, Jhelum

Beaconhouse School System, G T Road, Jhelum

Federal Govt. College, Mangla Cantt

Bahria Foundation College, GT Road, Jhelum

The Educator School, G.T Road, Jada

Punjab College, G.T Road, Jhelum

Wings College of Commerce, 4-Civil Lines, Jhelum

PICS, Bilal town [31]

Al Islam Sharia College Ketchehry Road Jhelum[32]

Govt. Institute of Commerce (W), Sohawa

Govt. Institute of Commerce, Pind Dadan Khan

Jinnah College of Commerce, Dina

Jinnah Law College, Jhelum

Govt. Al Bairuni Degree College, Pind Dadan Khan

VU Jhelum Campus

AIOU - Jhelum campus

Fatima Jinnah Post Graduate Girls College, Jhelum Cantt

Jhelum College of Education, Jhelum

QMA Jinnah College, PD Khan

Punjab College, PD Khan

Litra Velly Girls College, Jango

Bukhari College of Science and Comm Jhelum

Superior College, Jhelum

Fauji Foundation Degree College, PD Khan

GES Kantrila, Jhelum

Govt. Degree College for Women, Sanghoi

Old Bridge on Jhelum River  

New Bridge on Jhelum River

Exterior of Jhelum Railway Station 

A View of Jhelum Railway Station

A Train arriving at Jhelum Railway Station

A Train at Jhelum Railway Station

Major Akram Shaheed Chowk Jhelum Cantt. Illumination on 23rd March 2014.

Jhelum District Cricket Stadium

A Match at Jhelum Cricket Stadium

District HQ Hospital Jhelum

Police Lines Jhelum 

GPO (General Post Office) Jhelum

F-86 Aircraft at Jhelum Cantt

Shandaar Chowk Jhelum 

KFC at Jhelum 

KFC Outlet in Jhelum at Night

Subway Outlet in Jhelum 

Al-Bilal Hotel Jhelum 

Jhelum Cash & Carry Store in London, UK

Punjab University Jhelum Campus

Government College, G.T. Road, Jhelum

FG Inter College Jhelum Cantt

Jinnah College Jhelum

Government High School Jhelum

FG Girls Public Secondary School 

FG School for Boys Jhelum

Presentation Convent High School Jhelum

Happy Home Secondary School Jhelum

A Mosque in Jhelum Cantonment

Jamia Masjid Khalid Bin Waleed (Masjid Ahle Hadees), Jhelum. It is located in Toya Mohallah.

Masjid Afghan at the bank of Jhelum River 

Maulvi Boota Masjid Karimpura, Jhelum

St. John’s Church, Jhelum Cantonment. St. John’s Church is located in Jhelum cantonment, beside the river Jhelum. After some eight years in the construction, it was consecrated in 1857 as an Anglican house of worship. It is a Protestant church, now under the Church of Pakistan.
The church was built to commemorate the British victory in the Indian Rebellion of 1857 (The  Natives call it The War of Independence).

Presbyterian Church, Jhelum 

Rohtas Fort near Dina. Rohtas Fort is situated in a gorge approx 16 km NW of Jhelum and 7 km from Dina. It was constructed on a hillock where the tiny Kahan river meets another rainy stream called Parnal Khas and turns east towards Tilla Jogian Range. The fort is about 300 feet (91 m) above its surroundings. It could hold a force of up to 30,000 men.
It was built by Sher Shah Suri, to subdue the rebellious tribes of the northern Punjab region, in the 16th century.The work on this fort was started in 1541 and it took 8 years to built it. Sher Shah Suri died before the completion of this magnificent structure.This fort is about 4 km in circumference. The Rohtas fort was built to crush the local tribes of Potohar, who rebelled against the Sur dynasty after the Mughal emperor Humayun was ousted by the former. The tribes included, Awans, Janjua Rajputs, Dhund Abbasi, Kayanis, Minhas Rajputs, Khokhars among others.
The Fort was recaptured by local tribes and the Afghans were forced to flee. It became the capital of Gakhars. After the takeover of the Punjab by the Ranjit Singh, Sardar General Gurmukh Singh Lamba captured the Rothas Fort from Ghakhar chief Nur Khan in 1825.

Kabuli Gate of Rohtas Fort   

Tilla Jogian near Jhelum. Tilla Jogian is the highest peak in the Eastern Salt Range in Punjab, Pakistan. At 975 meters (3200 ft) above sea level, it is about 25 km to the west of Jhelum city. For thousand of years it was a place of sun worship for the Hindus because the sun can be seen here earlier and sets here later due to its height. Tilla Jogian in Punjabi means the Hill of Saints. This is where the Kanphata Jogis, who pierced their earlobes and were an order founded by Guru Gorakhnath have left behind a monastery.

Tilla Jogian also finds mention in the epic love poem Heer Ranjha of Waris Shah. Ranjha, the story’s protagonist, who when spending his time on the rebound, sublimating his love and passion in the spiritual world, came here for consolation and got his ears ringed here as was the tradition of Guru Goraknath’s followers.

For the Sikhs there is also another significance to Tilla Jogian as Guru Nanak Dev ji, the founder of Sikhism is said to have spent 40 days in quiet seclusion at Tilla Jogian. The Sikhs during the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh made a stone pond here in his memory. The British made a road and a pond here for water.

Hindu Temple at Tilla Jogian   

Mazar of Shahab-ud-Din Ghori at Dhamiak near Sohawa, District Jhelum 
Sultan Shahab-ud-Din Muhammad Ghori, originally called Mu’izzuddīn Muḥammad Bin Sām, and also referred to by Orientalists as Muhammad of Ghor (1149 – 1206), was a ruler of the Ghorid dynasty who reigned over a territory spanning present-day Afghanistan, Pakistan and northern India.
Shahabuddin Ghori reconquered the city of Ghazni (in modern-day Afghanistan) in 1173, and assisted his brother Ghiyas-ud-Din in his contest with Khwarezmid Empire for the lordship of Khorāsān. Shahabuddin Ghori captured Multan and Uch in 1175 and annexed the Ghaznavid principality of Lahore in 1186. After the death of his brother Ghiyas-ud-Din in 1202, he became the successor of his empire.Though the Ghorids’ empire was short-lived, Shahabuddin Ghori’s violent conquests strengthened the foundations of Muslim rule in India.
In 1206, Mu’izz left all the affairs in India in hands of his slave Qutb-ud-din Aibak. On his way back to Ghazni, his caravan rested at . He was assassinated on March 15, 1206, while offering his evening prayers.

Taraki Toll Plaza after Hail Storm

Sohawa City after Hail Storm

A Train on Jhelum Railway Bridge. The railway bridge on the river Jhelum was built in 1873 by the British engineer William St. John Galwey. He had also built the great Empress Bridge over the river Sutlej.

An Old Photo of Boat bridge on Jhelum River. St. John’s Church is also visible in the background.